Tuesday, 25 June 2013

Daily report 25/06/13

Woke up at 7am to be the first one in the queue for a warm shower, the apartment block where the hostel is located currently doesn’t have hot water but there’s an electrical heater for one of the showers. Ate breakfast and chatted to other travellers. It was pouring down. Went outside at 9am in search of Khuvsgul Mongolian Travels office that was supposed to be located in the City Plaza, 5th floor. I went to the Aeroflot office instead where a guy googlemapped City Plaza. In 15 min I was there but the Khuvsgul Mongolian Travels was not. Went around looking, found an office on the 5th floor, unknown, a guy called information and found out that the KMT office had moved two years ago and was ‘too far for me to visit’. I got phone numbers for the KMT. Went to exchange money. Went to the post office to buy postcards. Went to look for the Mongolian Tourist Board that was supposed to be in the Sports Palace. Looked for it for about half an hour inside out but it wasn’t there. Was hungry and wet and wanted to find a cafe — the Loving Hut near the main square. Really needed some tea. Did not find the cafe but the foreign ministry. Went looking around, didn’t find the cafe. Decided to head to the hostel to get a jumper, found the Loving Hut. Had lunch. Went to the hostel to get my laptop, change clothes and go to a cafe. In the hostel found out I have to find a new place for my last night in Ulan-Bator before heading north, that is day after tomorrow. Went to the French Bakery for a coffee to get myself going again. Did reading on organisations actively involved in Mongolian tourism. Phoned the Mongolian Tourist Board to find out their new address. I had a feeling it might be at the Tourism Ministry, or part of it. They told me to wait but never answered. I called again, they hung up. I called the Mongolian Tourist Information, found out their address and went there. Asked about the Reindeer Festival, got phone numbers that I already had. Very helpful lovely people though. Asked about the Mongolian Tourist Board, got misunderstood and given the location of an office where I need to apply for the border permit instead. Took a bus and walked to the office for the border permit (far). Was good to walk though a residential area. Got there, found out that I should have brought a letter in Mongolian and should come back on Thursday because tomorrow (Wednesday) the presidential elections are held and the office is closed. Walked back, took some photos, decided to pay a visit to the Tourism Ministry. Found the Environmental and Sustainable Development Ministry instead. Called a person from the reception desk. Got given numbers of the director for the general planning of the Tourism Ministry and the Env Ministry both. Got encouraged to contact them but got told the ministries are closed on Wednesday as I’m leaving on Thursday I will need to meet them when I’m back in July. Hopefully will have time. Went back to the hostel to get a wire for my camera to make this blog post. Chatted to a traveller who I had interviewed (read: talked to) earlier to get photos from her trip to Norther Mongolia and exchange contacts. Went to a cafe but the internet stopped working. Had more coffee and a lot of cake (dinner). Came back to the hostel. Called another hostel to make a booking for the next night. Easy and pleasant and surprising they had space. Blogged. I guess the day is finishing, it is 10.30pm now. Deciding to label it the beginning (rather than a failure of a day). Should learn Mongolian as soon as possible. Sleep.

Some photos I took today.

 
Newly married on Sükhbaatar square.


 
In the search of the border permit office.
  












On the way from the border permit office to the ministry.



   The road to the center. 


Nationalism is on. 


Selbe river and apartment blocks. 


   A dog napping next to the Chinese embassy (emotionally descriptive of all the tourists who are refused a Chinese visa).
   

A graffiti in front of the dance and music school.

  
Many new apartment blocks are being put up.




Beijing Airport


So it happened that I actually had to fly via Beijing and spend a night at the airport. Airports remain to strike me as strange places. I don’t know– something about people who can afford it having come to go somewhere else. There’s something uplifting and impersonal about airports. Something liminal between the everyday and the magical travel in time and space. I wish someone would suggest turning Beijing airport into a multifunctional botanical garden. There’s definitely enough sunlight, and perhaps then this exclusive place could at least include plants, plant lovers and some butterflies.

Tuesday, 18 June 2013

Almost ready to go


My sincere apologies for keeping you all in the dark for so long. Right after the start of my enthusiastic fundraising I was hit hard by essays, exams and reading, as an average MA student is. The blog is back up and running now, indicating that so am I!

My departure for the fieldwork has shifted a little bit: I’m going to arrive in Ulaanbaatar, Mongolia on Saturday 22nd, leaving London a day earlier. I will fly via Turkey both ways. For a moment I thought I’d stop in Istanbul for a couple of days but have now decided to stay in Mongolia for a whole month instead. I’m hoping to return to London on July 20th being some experiences and few of shades of tan richer; and maybe learned a best position for hitting the ground when falling off of a horse…

During these two days I have left in London I still have a heap of things to organise. Then again, knowing myself, time pressure can do only good when trying to make some progress. Cutting down on excessive sleeping and eating that has been taking ground after the exams has been long due. I will be doing most of the shopping and packing tomorrow leaving Thursday for unexpected errands, emailing and cleaning.

I’m hoping to be a better blogger from now on and give regular updates. However, I’ve decided not to take my laptop with me, so there may be some gaps now and then.
Thanks again to everyone who has been helping me with making the fieldwork actually happen. In the end I think I gathered about 30% of the funds that I needed for the whole thing. With the money I’ll be saving by not living in London for a month and having a little transaction with the room that I won’t be using, I think I can say that budget issues are under control. Here’s some essentials that will be accompanying me such as my first tape recorder given me by Ritam, Dickens’ book Great Expectations from Aerie and my passport with the visa…

New update already when en route!